Functional Footwear Mailer #005
Lasts, the shoe construction and a first factory upper test
Hey Functional Footwear enthusiasts!
I’ve got another progress update for you on our journey to Functional Footwear.
Since the last Functional mailer, the factory and I had first been waiting on the Turriff anatomical lasts to be turned (manufactured). As I designed my own lasts and provided last manufacturer Hormas Cortes with a model to copy there was no need for back and forth discussion of what I wanted. Last week I received my first set of the factory produced anatomical lasts. The manufacturer nearly nailed their first iteration. There may be a little fine tuning but its looking great so far and I am really looking forward to you all trying out the fit. Below are some photos of the factory made lasts.
Now that the factory has their sets of working lasts they have begun work on what they call dummy shoes. The dummy shoes are the factory tests. This lets their makers test a few of my construction ideas and get comfortable with the upper assembly process before moving forward and completing a final sample. Below you can see a few photos sent to me by the factory manager. They show their first upper test along side my final pattern test. (Left side is the factory upper.) You can also see an inside detail showcasing the gusset tongue which I will discuss in more detail in my next mailer. (Please note that the test leather is not the leather being used for final production.)
On to the shoe construction:
I have provided a long list of material requests and instructions for the factory manager, which they are working through to ensure they reproduce my Functional Footwear as accurately as possible. The Functional Shoe construction is slightly different than regular Stitchdown or Welted shoes. I am using much lighter weight stiffeners, insoles and midsole leathers than most workwear and heritage outdoor style leather footwear. The idea is to create a lighter weight, flexible shoe with the comfort of the Turriff anatomical fit. As a result the factory will need a little time to get comfortable and adjust their manufacturing process for me.
The factory I have chosen specializes in hefty Welted footwear but also makes Cemented, Blake and some 360˚ Stitchdown footwear. I have asked the factory about a few variations on their standard shoe constructions to see just how light, flexible, durable and easy to resole we can make the Turriff Functional Footwear all while keeping the shoes economically produceable for us and the factory.
I dont want the shoes to have any metal in them, again to keep them light, but also to make sure nothing corrodes and breaks the shoe down faster than it should. For that reason I have asked them to try out a combination Stitchdown and Blake stitched construction. The Forefoot will be a regular Stitchdown as seen in my earlier sample shoes while a Blake stitch will be used to secure the lining as well as the upper from the waist (just behind the metatarsals) to the heel seat. This will keep things light but also create a super easy resole process. I am really excited to see how they do with this challenge.
So for now we wait again and see how the factory does with all my requests.
I will carry on perfecting the boot pattern and update you soon with some photos. I will also continue communicating with the factory while we work to create shoes that are thoroughly considered and truly useful and wearable.
Thank you again for all your enthusiastic interest and your patience on the project.
If you have any questions or comments on the Functional Outdoor Shoe or the manufacturing process please send them along.
Following along for the last year or so, thanks for the update!